Is IPL Hair Removal Effective (2021)?

IPL hair removal (IPL) is a light-based hair reduction option that is comparable with laser hair removal but is different in several ways. Intense Pulsed Light:

• Is not laser. It uses a broad spectrum light rather than a focused single beam like laser.
• Uses a cooling gel that is applied directly to the skin prior to treatment.*
• Has a larger wand (head) than laser meaning it can clear more hair per flash than laser can.
• Is also used for skin conditions such as rosacea so it’s generally considered milder than laser but is thus also considered to be not as efficient as newer laser technology for hair removal.

*Some laser treatments use a lotion applied directly to the skin, too.

IPL was initially designed for vascular conditions and as mentioned above, it is widely used for many skin conditions unrelated to hair and hair removal.

So is IPL hair removal effective?

Is IPL Hair Removal Effective (2020)?

Electrolysis is the only true permanent hair removal option. At best IPL, (and laser) hair removal can offer long term permanent hair reduction if you have a series of treatments targeting the same area(s), over a period of time, according to your hair growth cycle.

I had 16 IPL treatments for hair removal and although I didn’t get 100% permanent hair removal I can certainly say that I did get significant hair reduction that has lasted many years later.

Having said that, while numerous research papers have been done on laser and IPL-based systems, none of them followed up with patients more than 6 months following treatment.

Here’s a summary from a Danish IPL study from 2011 that studied results of hair removal results for 7.7 years on average, that discusses the short term nature of prior IPL studies:

Optical hair removal has been performed since 1996 with different kind of lasers and Intense Pulsed Light systems (IPLs). More than 600 articles have been published on the efficacy of the different systems since then, and generally the efficacy has been evaluated after a follow-up time of 3-6 months. This time span is much shorter than the hair cycle for most body areas (7 months – 6 years) and hence the degree of permanency of hair removal cannot be evaluated. Also, data based on hair counts after four or more treatments and followup times longer than 6 months, are very few.

Dalton Medical Netherlands

How can you get an idea of “permanent” hair removal from treated patients when the results are only tracked up to 6 months after treatment? As the above quote refers to, the hair growth cycle for body hair may last up to 6 years.

So the research report decided to follow up with IPL patients for a longer period of time, 9 years at the high end. The average follow up time was 7.7 years, so longer than the hair growth cycle for most body hair.

IPL Research Report As A Permanent Hair Removal Option

89.9% of patients achieved a reduction of 53.3% of hair at the follow up time (7.7 years average). Thus it was concluded that IPL did offer what could reasonably be described as permanent hair removal:

Photoepilated facial hair reduction performed correctly has shown to be approximately 60% and unchanged after five to 15 full hair cycles, and thereby can be stated as permanent.

Dalton Medical Netherlands

It is worth noting that this 2011 research was completed using the Ellipse I2PL system manufactured by Candela Corporation which acquired the Ellipse line in 2018. Interestingly, the Ellipse I2PL was cleared in 2005 by the US FDA for “skin rejuvenation of vascular and pigmented abnormalities.” No reference to hair removal though.

And FDA “clearance” in this case means the Ellipse I2PL was shown to be “substantially equivalent” to another similar product that the FDA has already cleared or approved. FDA approval (ie. Electrolysis for permanent hair removal) is a more difficult and stringent process.

It’s also worth noting that since this 2005 clearance, Candela Corporation now promotes its GENTLEMAX PRO^®, GENTLELASE PRO^® and GENTLEYAG PRO^® laser hair removal products which utilize Alexandrite and Nd:YAG laser technologies. No mention anymore about IPL and its hair removal abilities, only for its skin rejuvenation properties.

So while the report paints a positive light on IPL for hair removal, the manufacturer seems to be focused on laser hair removal products for that purpose.

And as an aside, the clinic I used to go to IPL hair removal for now only offers laser hair removal.

IPL Hair Removal Process

IPL hair removal is similar to laser in terms of the process. The main difference is that IPL always requires the use of a cooling gel applied directly to the skin prior to treatment. It protects the skin from burns. From my IPL hair removal treatments, I recall the clear, thick gel being taken directly from a very cold fridge and applied directly to my skin. It was very cold on the skin from memory.

The handheld IPL wand is then placed directly into the gel, a button is depressed to flash the light on the unwanted hair, the wand is moved to the next spot to be treated and the process is repeated. Every so often the person operating the IPL machine had to wipe the gel off the wand before continuing the process.

I never had any post treatment lotion applied nor was it recommended. I remember wiping excess gel off my skin after treatment. It was pretty thick and took some effort to wipe off with paper towels. I don’t know that it had moisturizing properties and seemed only used to protect against burns from the machine as the process was being completed.

I still recall a few treatments where the skin at the back of my neck was quite sensitive and somewhat burned – almost like mild sunburn – for a few days after treatment.

Conclusion

• Intense Pulsed Light (IPL hair removal) is a light-based hair removal system that uses a broad flash of light to zap unwanted hairs using a cooling gel first applied to the skin.
• While IPL can often clear more hair quicker than laser, modern laser hair removal machines are generally regarded to offer better long term hair removal success.
• Modern laser machines also have cooling technology to protect skin and have advanced moreso than IPL.
• IPL is also used for skin conditions such as rosacea and facial flushing among others and appears to be currently focused on those conditions rather than hair removal.